textiles - free fabric collage tutorial

the tutorial

 

materials - click   here   for the materials list

 

introduction - in the last post I listed the basics that you will need to have a go at my little fabric collage project - please know that you don't need all of the fabrics.  For example, some of the things I listed were prompts/ideas for using up old pieces of work ... it's exciting to use up old projects and clear the decks a bit ..... so here we go!

 

inspiration - you may have given some thought to your theme or colour scheme ... if not it really doesn't matter.  This is a very freeing and very personal project ... you can copy my colours if you wish but better still if you have your own project in mind.  If you have no particular project in mind then using a variety of colours with no particular theme means you may end up with some very lovely abstract pieces, which is exciting!

 

prepare your base layer - get your piece of stiff Vilene or stiff calico or cotton and cut your piece into approximately 9 inches x 12 inches.  It really doesn't matter at all if you go an inch smaller or bigger either way

 

 

STAGE 1 - COVER YOUR BASE LAYER WITH FABRICS AND PAPER

 

layering - from your pile of gathered fabrics and paper  ... tear, rip or cut pieces of fabric and paper and glue it straight down on the base layer ... work in an abstract manner and work quickly without thinking too much about placement.  Don't be too fussy at this stage and you will get some good results

 

 

 

 

 

here I have glued some paper and some chiffon with stitched pleats

some wool tops and some cellophane wrapper

as well as very small bits of metallic fabric with fraying edges

 

 

glues - I use a glue stick ... but you can also use pva glue if you wish.  Glue stick dries quite quickly.  Whatever you use, you will need to leave your base layer to dry out thoroughly before moving on to the next stage.  If you have a hair dryer you can use that on a medium/gentle setting to help it dry a bit quicker ... but I would not recommend using a heat gun as the heat will be too intense and may burn some of your fabrics and papers

 

 

working fairly quickly, glue all your pieces on ... overlapping if you wish

until your base laver is covered completely

 

like this ...

 

 

above you can see some of what I've used - the green fern and the pumpkin fabrics are shop bought, there is a piece of old cross stitch, two cellophane wrappers in orange and yellow, assorted torn papers from paper bags and distressed magazine papers, the bee and hive image were torn from a magazine, there is also some hand dyed sari silk ribbon and some little torn metallic sheer fabrics dotted over the piece

 

before moving on to stage 2 - please ensure your work has dried out sufficiently (see above)

 

STAGE 2 - APPLY PAINT TO YOUR PAPERS AND FABRICS

 

blending - using your paints/acrylics or other colouring medium ... use them to blend the fabrics and papers together.  There are no rules ... it's up to you.  You can use your paints or colouring mediums to either enhance and draw attention to areas you love or to disguise areas you don't like so much.  If you don't like what you've done with the paint ... wipe it off, let it dry and paint over with another colour or glue a piece of fabric or paper over the top.  You can see in the photo below I've added some burnt umber, gold and sap green ... blending all the colours together.  Then let your piece dry completely before the next stage

 

 

in the picture below I've worked burnt umber and gold paint into a piece of wool blanket

and it's optional but, if you wish, you can press your gilding flakes into the paint

 

 

before moving on to stage 3 - please ensure your work has dried out sufficiently (see above)

 

STAGE 3 - ADD MACHINE OR HAND STITCHING AND THEN CUT UP

 

stitching - after the paint has dried you can further secure your fabrics and papers by stitching through the layers.  If you have a sewing machine you can use free motion stitch if you are happy with the technique.  If you prefer to do simple stitched lines, running stitch or zigzag then that's fine.  Perhaps alter the size of your stitches by adjusting the length and width while you are stitching ... that can add a bit of interest.  If you are not happy using a sewing machine (or don't have access to one) you can hand stitch through the layers ... long lines right across your piece in every direction ...

 

I've used a simple running stitch and zigzag stitch below ...

 

 then turn your piece over (mine looked like this on the back) ...

 

 

 on the back divide your piece into six smaller pieces by drawing lines with a pencil

(divide into as many pieces as you wish ... any size ... it's up to you)

 then be brave and cut them up with scissors

 

STAGE 4 - WORK ON SMALLER PIECES - ADD TEXTURE

add texture - your pieces should now be a bit more abstract and have some interesting lines and areas of colour.  The next thing is to select just one of your small pieces to work on. 

work on your small pieces one at a time personalising them and adding texture and interest.  You can add texture by building up more layers of fabric and paint (in the same manner I mentioned above).

further texture can be added with 3D elements such as the "emeralds" I've added below.  Position your bits and pieces on your little piece, then glue down to keep them in place, then over sew to further secure.  I would add my 3D elements first before doing a lot of hand stitching.  I tend to hand stitch or sew on small beads as the final stage ... but, of course, it is up to you

I added the chiffon and emerald strip

which I glued down to "place" it, then stitched it to secure

afterwards, I worked some french knots around the piece

to help blend it in with the surrounding fabrics and papers
 

at any time, you can also apply more paint if you wish and remember those gilding flakes, if you have some.  Press your little shimmery flakes into the paint and leave to dry thoroughly.  Cover the gilding flakes with a piece of plain paper and carefully press and smooth the flakes to burnish them into the paint.  Gilding over pleats, lumps and bumps ... even little stitches ... will enhance the raised areas.  If you don't have gilding flakes ... you could gently rub some treasure gold (or similar),  metallic paint, markel sticks or metallic oil pastels over any raised areas you wish to enhance and draw attention to

 

 

(if you want to go the whole hog ... there are a variety of products out there for adding texture to your piece ... by adding texture to paint as well as texture pastes and 3D paints that you puff up with heat products ... this tutorial does not explore all those possibilities ... but if you are familiar with them ... they are suitable options for adding texture to your pieces.  It's just not possible to explore everything in one tutorial within a blog post)

 

gilding on pleats to enhance raised areas

 

 

hand stitching - when it comes to adding little stitches to your piece ... it's nice to use a variety of different types of thread, use a variety of thicknesses and a variety of colours or toning colours.  Stitch your biggest stitches, with your thickest yarns, first ... then fill in around with smaller stitches and blend your colours.  I, personally, like tones of similar colour all blended together ... but you don't have to do what I do.  Do what pleases you!

 

 

different stitches - you can use your small pieces to practice new stitches.  I'm a terror for always using my favourite french knots ... so next time I do this technique (which will be on Wednesday as I have a Crow Day) I promise to use new stitches.  I recommend any of Jan Beaney's and Jean Littlejohn's books for stitch inspiration and I also have Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches which is useful.  Online ... you can visit Sharon B's dictionary of stitches for hand embroidery and needlework for beautiful stitch ideas.  Be creative and use the stitches out of context to add texture and interest.  In addition, you could consider stumpwork or raised embroidery.  The possibilities are endless ...

 

 

stitching through painted areas

after working on all six of my little pieces I found that each one took on a new personality

they spoke to me and let me know which type of "allotment" they would be ...

... like a story unfolding

 

and I hope that yours will too

I hope you have fun with the basic ideas contained in this tutorial

work into each one as much as you wish ... until you are happy with your little pieces

it is up to you

 

 you can refer back to my last seven or eight posts for more detail

thank you for reading today and for following along

the tutorial will stay on my blog forever ... so don't feel under pressure

have fun!!  ♥

 

 

Posted by Carolyn Saxby

textile ingredients - materials for the tutorial

thank you so much for following along with my little allotment series.  I'm now about to list the materials and talk about the ingredients

 

suitable for all levels

I will post a tutorial here tomorrow which will be suitable for every level from beginners and students to more experienced embroiderers and artists.  I will be sharing the basic ideas and it is up to you how far you take the technique.  If nothing else, the little textile pieces you will produce are a good platform for practicing hand stitches and exploring colour and texture.  If you choose to produce elaborately decorated pieces then you can take them further by putting a view finder on your piece and developing your work in your sketchbook

 

nothing fancy required

I will list the materials | requirements ahead of the tutorial.  I just wanted to say that it's a great technique for using up what you already have.  So raid your stash boxes, use up your old paints and when it comes to decorating your little pieces remember that anything goes ... including couching on found objects and using up left over bits from other projects ... I'm all for recycling in textiles.  You don't need very much of anything ... variety is the key when it comes to selecting fabrics and papers etc.

 

inspiration | starting point

sometimes it helps to have a colour scheme or theme in mind when gathering your materials.  If you are stuck for ideas on this ... cut out a magazine image you like or think seasonal colour ... ie. I chose autumn tones and I was also inspired by this postcard that my dear friend Colette Copeland sent to me ...

 

 

I felt drawn to these particular tones of orange, yellow and green

it was my starting point ...

 

and I was further inspired by this bowl that was on my desk

a gift from my friend Lesley Ninnes

materials you will need

a base layer - some stiff fabric on which to work on.  I used a stiff Vilene (used to stiffen shirt collars) but if you don't have any you can use stiff calico or cotton or some other stiff interfacing fabric.  You will be gluing fabrics and papers to this base layer so bear this in mind when making your selection

I chose to use this Vilene because I'd had it forever and it had started to look very yellow with age.  It's stiff enough to be an excellent base but soft and pliable enough to stitch through the layers





fabrics - a selection of fabrics such as cotton, silk, hessian, chiffons (melted or not), velvet, ribbons, pre-bought patchwork fabrics, lace, hand dyed or eco dyed fabrics, small snippets of fabric that might be too small for other projects, cellophane sweet wrappers, man made fabrics such as nylon and lining fabrics, woollen blanket pieces, man made or hand made felt, etc.  Fabrics with pleats, tucks, folds and ripped fabrics with raw edges are particularly lovely.  Vintage images transferred to fabric (or paper) would be ideal.  You can also consider cutting up old projects, old cross stitch bits or old work in progress pieces that you know you just aren't going to get around to finishing off.  The only fabrics that might not be suitable are ones that you would find difficult to sew through either by hand or sewing machine.  These are just ideas ... you don't need it all!

papers - ripped and torn are best (but cut with scissors if you wish) - papers from magazines, hand painted papers, postage stamps, hand made papers, silk paper, craft papers, printed and stamped papers, torn envelopes, vintage letters, paper bags, images cut from plastic bags and packaging, cellophane sweet wrappers etc. ... anything goes

tools - scissors for fabric, scissors for paper, glue sticks, needles, threads, paints, optional glue gun for gluing on bits after machine stitching.  A sewing machine is handy but not essential ... if you don't have one you can hand stitch your pieces

paints - acrylics are probably best but you could use dyes or inks if you are used to using them.  Don't use anything too watery or you may not be able to control the colour run on the fabrics (unless you want colour runs, of course).  I used acrylics ... I have quite a range of acrylics from very cheap ones from the pound shop to more expensive ones that I like to use - it's personal choice.  I do sometimes dip my brush in water to help spread the acrylics on fabric ... but I don't water down my paint.  You can use what you already have

gilding flakes (optional) - I applied gilding flakes to the paint when wet, you can also apply the gilding flakes with glue stick or pva.  You will need to let the paint or glue dry, then carefully cover over the flakes with a thin piece of paper and then burnish the gild to a finish that pleases you.  I use Clarity Stamp gilding flakes and for this project I used "variegated green".  In the UK you can buy gilding flakes from Crafty Notions and other very good suppliers (I am sure)

threads - a variety of threads (but you don't need much) ... cotton embroidery threads, wool and woollen yarns, string (optional), metallic threads, variegated threads (threads that change colour), hand dyed or hand painted threads, one strand sewing machine thread, sari silk ribbon or make your own "thread" by tearing up a chiffon scarf or other fabric (you will just need a needle with a bigger eye), etc. any threads ... anything goes

bits to decorate with (optional - it's up to you) - beads, sequins, buttons, charms, jewels cut from clothing, other sewing accessories such as poppers, hooks and eyes, found objects that can be couched on (over sewing to secure), shells, feathers, twigs, gilding flakes (see above), etc. be adventurous ... either glue it on with a glue gun, sew it on if it has natural holes or over sew (couch) if it doesn't

I think I've covered everything ... but if you have any questions leave a message in the comments box and I will either reply to you in the comments box or send you an email

tomorrow ... the tutorial which you will find   here


Posted by Carolyn Saxby

Mixed Media Textiles Tutorial - Leaves from Fabric Scraps

Before I start the tutorial I would like to thank Kirsty of Me Plus Molly for her lovely gift of bundles and bundles of organzas and angelina fibres in loads of gorgeous colours. These were the greens she sent me ...













There are lovely copper tones in the green angelina fibres - perfect for leaves and woodland projects














I love to recycle in my textile work and I hate to waste those little leftover snippets of chiffon, silk, organza, glitzy, shimmery, metallics fabrics, bits of plastic, carrier bags and waste thread too precious to throw away















I collect all these little bits in plastic pots (takeaway containers with lids are perfect for this - more recycling!). My pots of snippets are colour co-ordinated to make it easier when I come to use them later















So, I thought I would share with you another technique that uses up those little scraps of fabric

Mixed Media Textiles - Tutorial - Leaves from fabric scraps

Use a piece of felt or fleece for the background and cut some leaf shapes to whatever size you like. Mine are approximately 8 inches long and about 4 inches wide. Pile up your scraps on top of your leaf shapes














Then place a piece of chiffon on top of each felt leaf and pin in place all the way round




































The next step is to tack round the edges of the leaf. Remember tacking from school? I used to hate it. I was so lazy I used to just pin and sew and I still do unless there is a real reason to tack. Here, you really do need to tack round the edges to keep all the bits inside the felt and chiffon "sandwich" or else they just go everywhere when you start to machine embroider

Tack with a matching thread then you don't need to remove the stitches. When you machine embroider the stitches will blend in














After you've tacked round your leaf, trim away the chiffon













Machine stitch your design on the leaves over the chiffon. I used a forest green metallic thread. I sewed round the edges first and up and down the centre of the leaf first, then I embroidered veins and circles, something a bit different on each leaf - it's up to you














Machine embroidered patterns














Tie off all your ends and trim where necessary

The next step is the fun part (for me!). I heat up my soldering iron and very gently burn away the chiffon in places. It will also melt and fuse some of the other materials, ie. plastics and carrier bag plastic

HEALTH AND SAFETY - Please take care. The soldering iron will be "white hot" so don't burn yourself. Make sure you have somewhere safe to rest it, have some water handy and a wet cloth (just in case). I use the wet cloth to clean the soldering iron when it gets messy. You also need to be aware that this technique creates smoke and fumes so please be careful if you have breathing problems or are asthmatic. A mask should be worn and used in a well ventilated area or outside








































I added more machine embroidery on top in copper metallic thread and some hand stitching with beads to finish off. My leaves are not ferns but I was inspired by the brown seeds that grow on the underside of fern leaves














I used brown wool to sew the french knots for the seeds


















For one of the leaves I sewed on brown sequins with beads in copper thread. I gave the sequins a different look by distressing them with my heat gun after sewing












These are the finished leaves, each one is different. If you want, you can click on the photo to see them in more detail. I hope you enjoyed the tutorial and have a go some time - it is a fun technique and you can decorate your leaves any way you like